
Fiesta Food Part Two
In part one we have discussed Lechon, Menudo and Dinuguan. The marquee of that group is of course Lechon, by far the most festive of al the types of food that one can see and eat during a fiesta. The Philippines have a lot of fiestas and while the country itself isn’t rich with a big bulk of its population living way below the poverty line, they never scrimp on food.
Fiestas are all about gathering. People and families that have been separated for months and years come together not only with their families but with the community that they are or used to be a part of. The main attraction is the food because usually the food that is served in Fiestas are created from recipes passed on from one generation to the next. Thus the previous generation who are now returning to the old house would like to se what has happened to the dishes that they taught the next generation. They want to see if the next generation has been true to the recipe or still does not know how to cook.
This is especially true with women. Filipino mothers always treat their daughters as if they are their cooking protégés. They do this because this is how they were treated by their mothers as well. It’s like a skill they have to learn before they can be declared fit to be married. This is why one of the often heard things after a daughter learns how to cook well or at least learns the recipe taught to her by their mother is the phrase, “Pwede ka nang mag-asawa!” This translates to, “Now you can get married!” It’s like a right of passage for young daughters.
Like I stated in the first article, Fiestas are also a showcase of food. Families are proud to showcase family recipes and they want to show to the community that they have the best menudo, the best dinuguan, the best whatever dish they have prepared. But they also want to show their elders that they have been true to the recipe that has been handed to them. Sometimes they improve on it and are proud to sow it to their moms or grandmothers. Let’s just say that the “improvement” isn’t really well taken. Any step forward is a step back.
The showcasing of the dish isn’t only one way however. It’s not only downward but upward as well. During fiestas, the people who usually return to the community are the younger generation who has left the old town to seek their own fortune elsewhere. They return to their old town expecting and anticipating their favorite dishes when they were still children. They want to be pampered and for Filipinos, being pampered means comfort food. I myself love going back to the old towns of my forefathers and taste the delicious dishes there. One of my favorites is the Dinuguan in Bulacan (a province north of Manila) and the Laing of Bicol (a province group South of Manila).
These dishes taste so good whenever they are made where you first tasted them. It’s like you can copy the recipe to the letter but if you cook dinuguan in Manila, it’s still not as good as when you cook it in Bulacan or wherever hometown you come from.
People expect to taste their favorites when they go to Fiestas. I remember practically going crazy when I go to Fiestas because I simply do not know where to start. They would have loads of food there and the thing about Fiestas is you just don’t stop in one place. You go from one house to another, eating the same dishes that have different variations. In one day you could easily eat ten types of menudo, lechon, dinuguan, fried chicken, lumpiang shanghai, pancit and kaldereta. You would find yourself begging the people in different houses to stop you from eating more of their dishes! The thing is you will keep on going if only your stomach could take it. I will go on about this but I’m pretty sure you want to hear more about food.
4) Lechon Manok – As we have discussed earlier, Lechon Manok isn’t really up to par with the original, the pork Lechon or Lechon Baboy. However, Lechon manok is also a favorite in fiestas because like I said above, people in the Philippines aren’t really rich. Lechon isn’t really cheap. In fact, Lechon is a very expensive dish. While it would be great to have lechon, sometimes, it’s just not in the cards.
Lechon manok is the best alternative beause people in the Philippines really love chicken as well. They have so many chicken dishes but Lechon manok is one of those special treats that people want to have. Most probably after the original lechon, lechon manok is the most popular. It is also probably one of the most common dish of them all.
There are many variations of Lechon manok. In Bacolod, they have what is called “inasal” a kind of lechon manok that is way different from the regular way of cooking lechon manok. Usually, what one needs to do is to just marinate the chicken and then grill it. “Inasal” has a very different and a lot more complicated way of marination process. It involves squeezing, dipping and a whole bunch of everything else that makes it special. For comparison, here are both recipes. Be reminded that there are variations of variations so it could all be different.
Ingredients
Marinade:
- 2 tbsp calamansi juice
- salt and pepper to taste
- tamarind or tanglad leaves for stuffing
Liver Sauce:
- 3 whole chicken liver
- 4 cloves garlic minced
- 1/2 medium onion diced
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
- 2 tsp cooking oil
- Chicken broth
- salt and pepper to taste
- 2 tbsp vinegar
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 tbsp breadcrumbs
- 1 tsp brown sugar or to taste
Procedure
- Rub chicken with calamansi juice, salt, pepper. Let stand for at least four hours, turning occasionally to marinate evenly. Drain and reserve marinade.
- Stuff chicken with tanglad or tamarind leaves and roast in an oven, turbo or over hot charcoal. Add cooking oil to marinade and use this to brush chicken every now and then as it cooks.
- Prepare sauce. Pound together or put on a blender chicken liver, half of the garlic and the onion. If using a blender, add a little water or broth to make a paste. Set aside.
- Heat oil and saute remaining garlic and onion. Stir in liver mixture, Chicken broth and seasonings.
- Add vinegar and bay leaf. Simmer for 2 min. Stir in breadcrumbs; add sugar and a little more water or broth to reach the desired consistency. Adjust seasonings to obtain the desired balance of sweet and sour taste.
- Cut up chicken into serving portions and serve with liver sauce.
Here is the Inasal recipe that you might also enjoy. I do.
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Chicken Inasal Ingredients:
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· 2 Chickens (free range if available)
· 3/4 cup Filipino vinegar
· 1/4 cup Garlic finely minced
· 2 stalks Lemon grass optional
· Salt
· Annatto oil (see notes below)
· Wooden skewers
· Spiced vinegar
· Additional Ingredients Instructions:
- 2 free-range chickens, approx. 3 pounds each, or if you can find smaller chickens, use 3 of them
- 3/4 cup Filipino vinegar, palm if you can find it, or cane; or if you must, the equivalent in kalamansi juice (available in the frozen aisle of your Asian market if you don’t have access to fresh)
- 1/4 cup garlic, minced very finely, or better yet, mashed into a paste with 2 teaspoons sea salt
- achuete or annatto oil, made by steeping 1/4 cup annatto seeds in 1/2 cup hot oil for half an hour (If not available, you may mix a small amount of paprika and tumeric to achieve the same color.)
- thick wooden skewers, soaked for 1 hour in water prior to cooking
- Bottled spiced vinegar for serving, or make your own by mixing Filipino vinegar, lots of crushed garlic, a bit of salt, and a handful of Thai peppers or other tiny red hot peppers
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Chicken Inasal Cooking Instructions:
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- Quarter the chickens, or if using the small ones, halve them. Marinate in the vinegar, garlic and salt, several hours or overnight, turning several times.
- Preheat grill to 350 degrees. Make sure your grill is cleaned and oiled well. Cook over indirect heat for 20 minutes, basting with the achuete oil.
- Turn and cook for 10-15 minutes more, or until thickest parts of chicken exude clear juices when pierced. Can also be made in a grill pan on the stove if no outside barbecue is available.
- Serve immediately with the spiced vinegar. Other welcome additions to the vinegar: some soy sauce or fish sauce if you like, or even some minced ginger.
5) Pork Barbecue
Barbecue? Really? Yes really. I know barbecues don’t really scream Filipino. For those of you who know the history of the Philippines however, this wouldn’t be such a surprise. Here’s a brief history lesson for everyone out there who do not seem to understand what I am talking about.
In the early part of the 1500s, the island group was colonized by the Spaniards and ruled for more than 300 years. Then the Americans came and blind sided us with the single most outrageous deal in the entire history of the world called “The Treaty of Paris”. They ruled for a few decades, got beat up by Japan and then McArthur came back and opened a can of whoop ass on Hirohito’s legion.
The United States therefore have some influence on Filipinos in terms of culture and as we have talked about before, when we say culture, in the Philippines, you could very well just have said “food”. The weather in the Philippines is always like summer and therefore barbecues are particularly popular.
True to form though, Filipinos added a twist to this dish. They are not the conventional types of barbecue and they have a distinct flavor and design as well. I don’t think that Filipinos even know how unique our barbecue is. Filipino barbecue is usually marinated in a slightly sweet sauce. That of course isn’t groundbreaking in any way. The way a barbecue usually looks is that a strip of fat is skewered into a short and thin barbecue stick and then the rest of the barbecue stick is filled with mostly lean meat. People have taken this for granted. They think that all barbecues look the same but in fact, this design is uniquely Filipino. Remember also that when we say barbecue here, we do not mean a general way of cooking. It is not the low fire grilling.
Barbecue for the Filipinos is pork barbecue. In relation to Fiestas and other party occasions, barbecues are great because it allows for people to walk around, socialize, carry on a conversation while eating. It’s normal for people in the Fiestas to sample the barbecues first and foremost from the hosts because it allows them to enjoy the food of the host without fully committing to eating their cuisine by getting a plate. You can just have a barbecue stick and say that you already ate there. As we all know, in Fiestas, people will force you to eat in their house. If you decline, it would be an insult to the host. If you’re really full, grabbing a barbecue would be like substantial compliance.
Traditionally, barbecues don’t have dips or sauces. You just grab them and go eat it. However, sometimes you are offered some sauce to which would complement the barbecue like a special vinegar or soy sauce/ vinegar combination. It really depends on you. Some people like the dips and others want the purity of the barbecue.
It sounds like a simple recipe really but I myself who have probably tasted over a thousand different barbecues can attest that no two barbecues taste alike. Of course if it came from the same cook or the same batch they would taste the same but if you take that out of the equation, you will definitely have an impossible time matching two barbecues. It has never happened and I don’t think it ever will. Everyone seems to cook it differently. Some are dry barbecue while others are practically drenched. Some have a particular meat while another may have a different part of the pork. The marinade and the sauces all play a part as to how each barbecue would taste as well as the part of the pig that is used. Unlike menudo or dinuguan or even lechon, barbecues all taste different and while sometimes it’s a bad thing, it can also be a good thing in terms of variety.
Here below however, is the basic barbecue recipe for those of you might want to try it on your own. Remember that it may not taste the same as others.
Estimated preparation: 20 minutes
Marinating: 30 minutes to 3 hours
Barbecue: 10 to 15 minutes each
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Pork Barbecue Ingredients:
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· 1 kg. pork
· 20 bamboo skewers
· 1 cup soy sauce
· 1 head garlic, minced
· 1 onion, finely chopped
· 1/4 cup of calamansi juice or lemon juice
· 1/2 cup of 7up, sprite or beer (optional)
· 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
· 3 tablespoons of brown or white sugar
· 1/2 cup of banana or tomato catsup
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Barbecue Cooking Instructions:
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· Cut pork meat into thin and long slices – 1/4 inches thick and less than 2 inches wide.
· In a mixing bowl, marinate the cut pork with the soy sauce, minced garlic, chopped onions, calamansi juice, ground pepper, sugar, banana catsup and the soda or beer (this tenderizes and adds flavour to the pork barbecue)
· Mix well and keep in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes (turning occasionally).
· Prepare the bamboo skewers by removing splinters and soaking in water to reduce burning during barbecue.
· String the pork on the skewers.
· Over live charcoals, barbecue the pork on skewers until each barbecue is cooked – turning every few minutes on each side and basting the leftover marinate on the barbecue.
6) Puto
What is Puto? Puto is basically a variation of rice cake. Filipinos love rice and they also like to cook it in various ways and puto is just one of them. There are many kinds of puto but the most basic and popular form of it is that it is round like a cupcake and has a white color. In the province however, puto is cooked in bulk and sold in bulk. It is placed in a bilao, a leave woven round and shallow container and that in itself is the place where it will be cooked as well as served.
Puto can have toppings and the most popular topping that they have is cheese. Even here there is some variation as sometimes it is grated cheese and other times it’s melted cheese or a strip of one or two pieces.
Another popular topping that is placed on a puto is what is known as red egg or salted egg. A piece of this on top of the puto makes the puto “special” and much more tasty. The red egg is basically a matured egg buried for days in salty soil and makes the egg have a distinct salty and appetizing tast. The puto itself would normally taste milky to a bit bland so the combination is perfect.
The most popular food however that goes with this white treat is none other than the black-colored dinuguan. Surprised aren’t you? But yes, For Filipinos, this is the basic and most popular combination of the two kinds of food. Dinuguan and Puto go together like peanut butter and jelly and bert and ernie even. SO much so that when one serves the other as a single, it wouldn’t take long before one guest would ask if the other one is coming. (Yes this can be a bit annoying since both are really good on its own). Perhaps there is omething about the color of the two. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that dinuguan is extremely tasty and matches well with the milky puto. Whatever it is, it’s the combination of choice.
In fiestas, puto is just like barbecue. It is something that you can eat while walking around and talking to relatives as well as other guests. It’s great because it’s not messy at all and you could eat it without really having to make sure that you don’t ruin how you look. Or having the need to wipe every so often.
Puto is usually an afternoon snack but it is also sought after in a Fiesta. Just like with any dish that we have presented, most families would have a special recipe of puto and one that they are eternally proud off. The draw back of puto is that it can be very heavy on the stomach. Just a couple of servings of this and you could totally lose your appetite altogether because you would really feel full already. Three large pieces and you would have thought that you have eaten at a buffet.
Here’s a very short recipe for you top enjoy with or without dinuguan.
2 c. rice soaked in 1 1/2 c. water overnight
2 tsp. baking powder
1-1 1/2 c. white sugar
4 egg whites
2 tbsp. sugar for egg whites
You may use long grain.
In a heavy duty blender, puree soaked rice in water until very fine. Pour in a bowl; add sugar and 2 teaspoons baking powder. Mix well and set aside.
Beat egg whites until stiff. Add 2 tablespoons sugar to keep the air in the beaten egg whites. Fold the egg whites into the beaten rice batter and pour into muffin pans. Steam for about 20 minutes or until done. Optional: Sprinkle a few anise seeds on top of the puto. Serve with grated coconut.
